When you pick up and try a new skincare product for the first time, one of these three things can happen:
(1) an instant major glowing skin, or
(2) a skin freak-out which results to irritation, whiteheads, pimples, rashes popping out of nowhere, or
(3) sudden show-up of clusters of pimples and whiteheads with no pain or irritation.
There are many misconceptions out there on breakouts and skin purging. To help you decipher whether your skin is actually breaking out or purging, we’ll put an end to some common misconceptions and clear things up about these two skin concerns.
How do pimples form?
Let’s talk about the root of the matter first—why and how do pimples form?
When pores become clogged with dead skin oil, sweat, and dirt, it becomes an inflamed pore. What usually follows this is the formation of micro-comedones. These are microsized bumps chilling deep under your skin. You can’t really see them on the surface because they are stuck deep and can’t get out due to the build-up of dead skin cells. The longer it stays there, the more likely it will grow into a whitehead, blackhead, pimple, or cystic acne. On average, these micro-comedones can take up to 8 weeks to surface.
So, how can I tell if I’m purging or breaking out?
Let’s reframe the question to “are these pimples new (being created) or just showing up from under (being revealed)?”
Break-out
With break-outs, the pimples that are showing up are entirely new. It is a reaction that occurs due to a new product you’ve incorporated into your skincare routine.
You should check for both the consistency and ingredients (whether they’re comedogenic, contains artificial fragrances, or irritating ingredients) as these may contribute to pore-clogging which leads to you already know what.
Some signs to look out for:
Break-outs scattered at random areas of your face where you usually don’t get pimples.
Break-outs accompanied by irritations like redness, itchiness, rashes, pain, or swelling.
Your skin isn’t improving within 8 weeks or longer but is actually getting worse. In this case, you have to stop the usage of the new product.
Skin Purging
Skin purging is a temporary condition that happens when new products WITH active ingredients are introduced to your routine. Some known active ingredients are AHA, BHA, retinoids, vitamin C, and benzoyl peroxide.
Active ingredients help speed up the skin renewal which means dead skin cells are shed faster. With the accelerated exfoliation of dead skin cells, micro-comedones and other impurities lying underneath will be pushed up to the surface at a much quicker rate. It’s like a detox process under your skin that gets worse (initial breakout) before it gets better (healthier skin).
Some signs to look out for:
Clusters of pimples or whiteheads in the typical places where you get pimples.
No signs of irritation like dryness, redness, itchiness, nor pain.
You recently used a product or did a treatment that makes use of active ingredients or exfoliating acids.
Break-outs that last from couple days to several weeks (4-6 weeks) but progressively get better after.
Note: Products without any active ingredients DOES NOT cause skin purging.
What do I do next?
If your skin is breaking out, and random zits and whiteheads keep popping up every time you’re using a certain product, then stop it. Figure out which ingredients are not jiving well with your skin. Prolonged use of ingredients not liked by your skin will only cause hypersensitivity. Don’t forget to keep track of areas where you usually experience breakouts.
If it is a skin purging you’re going through, then as long as there’s no intensive dryness and adverse reactions, you may keep it for a while. When introducing actives into your routine, always start low, and slowly increase it only when you know your skin can tolerate it.
Skincare is always trial and error. What works for your friend may not work for you regardless if you have the same skin type. Avoid pushing your skin to its limit by trying on countless products, instead, work with your skin and figure out what works best for it.